Why is your battery charging from the grid? Usually a setting doing exactly what it was told.
Charging from the grid at 2am, refusing to discharge when the house needs it, or pushing your stored energy out to the street — all of it looks like a fault, and most of it isn't. The single biggest cause: if your backup reserve is set above the current charge, many systems will import from the grid to reach it — even with grid charging switched off. Here's what's normal, what's genuinely broken, and the five-minute check that saves a callout.
Reviewed by the Mission Green Energy Team · Updated August 2026
Your battery is behaving oddly.
Is it broken?
Usually not. Most of these are settings doing exactly what they were told.
Charging from the grid, refusing to discharge, filling up at 2am, pushing energy out to the street — all of these look like faults and most of them aren't. They are a battery obeying a setting, a tariff schedule, a VPP instruction or a safety reserve that somebody configured, possibly your installer, possibly your retailer, possibly you.
That matters because the fix is completely different. A fault needs a technician. A setting needs an app and five minutes. Working out which you have is what this page is for.
The single most useful thing to know before you read on: your battery has a reserve level, and it will do surprising things to protect it. If the reserve is set above the current charge level, many systems will charge from the grid to reach it — even with grid charging switched off — because the reserve is treated as a safety floor rather than a preference. That one behaviour explains a large share of the confused questions we get.
“It's charging from the grid”
— the six normal reasons.
Work down this list before you call anyone.
- Your backup reserve is above your current charge. The most common cause. The system treats the reserve as a floor it must reach, so it will import to get there. Raising the reserve on a partly-empty battery triggers grid charging immediately, on many systems regardless of the grid-charging toggle.
- You're in a VPP, and the VPP has its own separate reserve. This catches people constantly — there can be two reserve settings, and setting the household one low does nothing if the VPP one is still high. Check both.
- A storm is forecast. Systems with severe-weather features (Tesla's Storm Watch, available in Australia, is the best-known) charge to full ahead of forecast severe weather so you have backup if the grid drops. You should get a notification when it activates.
- You're on a time-of-use or wholesale tariff with scheduled charging. Deliberately filling the battery on cheap overnight or midday power to use during the expensive evening peak is correct behaviour and is usually saving you money — it just looks alarming if you didn't know it was configured.
- It's recovering after an outage or deep discharge. Once the battery has been run down below its reserve, it prioritises refilling to that reserve before resuming normal savings behaviour.
- Winter, or a long run of bad weather. If solar can't fill the battery, a system configured to maintain a reserve will make up the difference from the grid.
Only after all six of those are excluded is grid charging likely to be a genuine fault — typically a miscalibrated meter or CT clamp reading your import and export backwards, which is worth mentioning to your installer as a specific possibility rather than a vague complaint.
“It won't discharge”
— and the house is on grid power.
Full battery, evening peak, and it just sits there.
Frustrating, and again usually a setting:
- It's already at the reserve. If the battery shows 20% and your reserve is 20%, there is nothing available to discharge. The battery is “full” of energy it is not allowed to use. Lower the reserve if you'd rather have the savings than the backup — that's a genuine trade, not a bug.
- The VPP is holding it. If you're enrolled in a virtual power plant, your battery may be reserved for a market event rather than your evening. That's the deal you signed; whether it's a good one is a separate question our VPP guide covers.
- The load is bigger than the battery's power output. Batteries have a maximum continuous kW rating separate from their kWh capacity. Switch on an oven, a kettle and ducted heating together and the battery may supply what it can while the grid tops up the rest. You'll see grid import even with a full battery — that's the power limit, not a fault.
- Mode. Backup-only or storm mode holds charge deliberately. Check which mode you're actually in.
- It's cold. Some systems limit discharge at low temperatures to protect the cells.
“It's exporting
my battery to the grid.”
Sometimes deliberate and profitable, sometimes not what you wanted.
Seeing your stored energy flow out to the street is alarming if you didn't ask for it. Three explanations:
- A VPP event. This is the main one. Your VPP is discharging your battery into the grid at a moment of high wholesale price or system need — and paying you for it. Check your VPP app's event history; if the payment is good, this is the arrangement working as intended.
- Deliberate arbitrage on a wholesale tariff. On an Amber-style plan, discharging into a price spike can earn far more than the energy is worth to you. Again, intentional — see our wholesale tariff guide.
- Configuration. Some systems have an explicit export-from-battery setting that can be enabled during commissioning without the owner realising.
When it's genuinely wrong: if you're not in a VPP, not on a wholesale plan, and your battery is discharging to the grid at a low feed-in tariff, you are effectively selling stored energy for less than it cost you. That's worth raising with your installer, and it is one of the few behaviours on this page that usually is a misconfiguration.
When it *is*
actually a fault.
Four patterns that settings don't explain.
Offline, repeatedly
Dropping off the app for hours or days usually means comms — wifi range to the inverter, a changed router password, a failed dongle. Annoying rather than dangerous, but it also means you can’t see what the system is doing, and on a VPP it can cost you payments. Fixable, and worth raising.
Capacity dropped suddenly
Gradual fade is normal ageing. A step change — usable capacity falling noticeably between one month and the next — is not, and is worth raising while the warranty is live. Our battery degradation guide covers what normal looks like.
Error codes, alarms, breaker trips
Recurring alarms or a battery isolator that keeps tripping is the system reporting a problem. Don’t keep resetting it. And any burning smell, swelling, visible damage or heat means isolate if safe to do so and call your installer immediately — that is not a wait-and-see.
The fourth is the sneaky one: numbers that don't add up. If the app shows solar generating, the house consuming little, and the battery not charging — or import and export that look swapped — suspect a CT clamp fitted backwards or on the wrong conductor. It's a common commissioning error, it's quick to fix, and it can quietly cost you money for years because everything looks like it's working.
And if the battery simply won't reach 100%, that has its own explanation and usually isn't a fault at all — see why your battery won't charge to 100%.
So — what should you
actually do?
Five minutes of checking beats a callout.
1. Open the app and find the reserve. Note the number, and note the current charge. If reserve is at or above current charge, you've found your answer for both grid charging and refusal to discharge.
2. Check whether you're in a VPP, and check its separate reserve. Two settings, two places. This is the single most missed step.
3. Check the mode and any schedule. Self-consumption, savings, backup-only, storm — and whether scheduled grid charging is on for a cheap window.
4. Check for a storm alert or notification in the app history.
5. Only then call — with screenshots. Your installer first, then the manufacturer. If your installer has closed down, your rights survive them: claiming when your installer has gone bust.
One honest closing thought. A battery that charges from the grid overnight on a cheap tariff and discharges into the evening peak is not misbehaving — it is doing the most valuable thing it can do. Plenty of the “faults” on this page are systems saving money in a way nobody explained at handover. If yours is behaving in a way you don't understand, the first question worth asking is not “what's broken” but “what was this configured to do, and does that still suit me?”
Why is my solar battery charging from the grid?:
your questions, answered.
Usually a setting rather than a fault. The most common cause is your backup reserve being set above the battery's current charge level — the system treats the reserve as a safety floor it must reach, so it imports to get there, and on many systems it will do this even with grid charging switched off. Other normal explanations: you are in a virtual power plant that has its own separate reserve setting (setting the household reserve low does nothing if the VPP one is still high); a severe-weather feature such as Tesla's Storm Watch has charged the battery to full ahead of a forecast storm; you are on a time-of-use or wholesale tariff with scheduled charging deliberately filling the battery on cheap power; the battery is refilling to its reserve after an outage or deep discharge; or solar simply cannot fill it in winter. Only once those are excluded is a genuine fault likely, most often a CT clamp fitted incorrectly.
Five common reasons, and most are configuration. The battery may already be sitting at its reserve level — if it shows 20% and the reserve is 20%, there is no energy it is permitted to use, so it holds. A virtual power plant may be holding the charge for a market event rather than releasing it to your household. Your evening load may exceed the battery's maximum continuous power output, which is a separate specification from its storage capacity, so the battery supplies what it can while the grid covers the rest — that is a power limit rather than a fault. The system may be in backup-only or storm mode, which deliberately holds charge. And some systems restrict discharge in cold conditions to protect the cells. Check the reserve level first, then the VPP settings (remembering there can be two separate reserves), then the operating mode.
Three explanations, two of which are intentional and profitable. The most common is a virtual power plant event: your VPP is discharging your battery into the grid at a moment of high wholesale price or system need, and paying you for it — check your VPP app's event history to confirm. The second is deliberate arbitrage on a wholesale or pass-through tariff, where discharging into a price spike earns considerably more than the stored energy is worth to your household. The third is configuration: some systems have an explicit export-from-battery setting that can be enabled during commissioning without the owner being told. It is genuinely wrong when you are not in a VPP, not on a wholesale plan, and the battery is exporting at a low feed-in tariff — in that case you are effectively selling stored energy for less than it cost to store, and it is worth raising with your installer as a specific misconfiguration.
Almost always deliberate, and usually saving you money. If you are on a time-of-use tariff with a cheap overnight or super-off-peak window, or on a wholesale plan, a correctly configured system will fill the battery when power is cheapest and discharge it during the expensive evening peak — which frequently beats waiting for tomorrow's sun, particularly in winter when solar cannot fill the battery anyway. The other common cause is the backup reserve: if the reserve sits above the current charge, the system imports overnight to reach it. Virtual power plant programs may also charge your battery from the grid as part of their operation, and severe-weather features charge to full ahead of a forecast storm. If none of those apply and you would rather it only ever charged from solar, most systems have a grid-charging toggle — though be aware that on many, reserve-topping overrides it.
Four patterns that settings do not explain. Repeated offline periods, usually a communications problem such as weak wifi to the inverter, a changed router password or a failed dongle — not dangerous, but it blinds your monitoring and can cost VPP payments. A sudden step change in usable capacity between one month and the next, as distinct from the gradual fade that is normal ageing. Recurring error codes, alarms, or an isolator that keeps tripping, which is the system reporting a problem rather than a nuisance to reset around. And numbers that do not add up — solar generating, low household consumption, battery not charging, or import and export that look swapped — which often indicates a CT clamp fitted backwards or on the wrong conductor, a common commissioning error that quietly costs money because everything appears to work. Any burning smell, swelling, visible damage or unusual heat means isolate if safe and call your installer immediately.
Screenshots, taken while the behaviour is actually happening. Capture the live energy-flow screen showing solar, house, battery and grid at the moment the odd behaviour occurs, with the timestamp visible. Then capture your settings pages: the backup reserve level, the current state of charge, the operating mode, the grid-charging toggle, and any virtual power plant configuration including its separate reserve if it has one. Add the app's event or alert history if the system logs one. Note the date, time and weather, since storm-related charging and winter solar shortfall are both common explanations. This matters because a vague report gets a slow, generic response, while a timestamped screenshot showing, for example, grid import at 2am with the reserve set to 30% usually gets diagnosed on the first call. Contact your installer first, then the manufacturer — and if your installer has ceased trading, your consumer guarantees survive them.
Where these figures come from.
Figures on this page are drawn from primary sources and were current as at August 2026. Programs, prices and standards change — confirm at the source before relying on a number.
- energy.gov.au — Home battery storage guidance
- Clean Energy Council — Consumer resources for solar and battery owners
- Australian Energy Regulator — Consumer information on tariffs and energy plans
- ACCC — Consumer guarantees, which apply alongside a manufacturer warranty
- energy.gov.au — Virtual power plants explained